Simplicity 8456 (1969)- Simple Purple Dress

What you plan on making isn't always what you end up with. That was the story of Simplicity 8456 from 1969. Nonetheless, the ending was happy. A truly "feel good" experience.


HIGHLIGHT REEL:

1.) FABRIC: I'm happy to report that the fabric (a soft, cotton blend) was okay this time. I will admit that sometimes my results are "flouncier" and less stiff than the fabric on the envelope pic. But, I don't really mind that. I just resisted the urge to make a "that's what she said" joke. Aren't you proud of me? Oh wait, I guess I just...never mind.

2.) DETAILS PART I: Okay, so I left off the welts on the front of the dress. I suppose that was the detail that really "makes" the dress. However, I remember the fiasco of trying to line up the pockets on another knit dress that I made (the red and white one). I couldn't get those buggers lined up, probably due to the stretchiness of the fabric pulling them out of place (despite me using pins).

So what did I do? I gave up and left them off all together. I RULE! (said in the voice of Kevin Spacey from "American Beauty")


But seriously, I dug the "simplicity" of the dress without them. I just did a pun. My dad would be so proud.

3.) DETAILS PART II: So there is much top stitching on the dress, but you can't really see it in pics or in life. Doesn't it suck when you work really hard to sew something straight and pretty and then you can't even see the detail? Any tips for making top-stitching pop out more?

4.) FIT: No trouble here!
5.) PHOTOGRAPHY: What's up with the photographs making all my dresses look "wrinkly" even when they're not? Perhaps one of the mysteries of the universe or just related to really shitty lighting. Take your pick.


I'm happy to say there wasn't a whole lot to report here. It went really well and raised my confidence level. Okay, so I copped out a tad, but eh, I'm lazy.


Happy Sewing,
Astrid

Simplicity 7345 from 1967- Mod Red and Black Colorblock Dress

Simplicity 7345 from 1967- View 2
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WTF?
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I love knits because I love pinking-- such a nice, lazy way to finish seams
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Well, I've been sewing but I haven't been posting much. It's been a pretty busy month, but I've managed to get in some sewing now and then. I've made three dresses this month that I haven't posted so I'll have more to come very soon.

But first, let's begin with Simplicity 7345 from 1967. And here's the rundown:

1.) PATTERN SIZING: This is the second pattern that I have done with the 34 bust. So many of my fitting issues were solved by going down a size. As Michael Scott would say, "That's what she said." But seriously, this one went pretty well.

2.) SHOULDER SEAMS/ARMPIT AREA: The biggest issue that I face with the 34 bust is armpits/shoulder seams. If I leave the shoulder seams as is, the seam still falls off my shoulders. It's not as pronounced as the 36 bust, but it still isn't what I want. I have fairly wide shoulders and if I don't adjust the shoulder seams, I end up changing my shape from hourglass to inverted triangle.

Mid-way through & footwear challenged

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How do I fix the shoulder seams? Well, I must say, I'm definitely in the lazy sewer category, so I know all the meticulous seamstresses out there will cringe at this one. Do I adjust the fit by redrawing the pattern during the cutting phase as a careful sewer should do?

Uh...well...actually no. I lay out my garment, grab my ruler, and use my chalk to draw a line from the armpit up to the shoulder seam. Then, I grab my trusty scissors and cut, hoping that I don't get scissor-happy and ruin everything. But I do use my ruler and I do measure the shoulder seams on RTW dresses that fit well in the shoulders, so that I know how much to cut-off. So far, this has worked well (no Lorena Bobbitt moments here), but I have to be careful not to cut off too much in the lower part of the armscycle. Wow, I used a big sewing word...but I don't think I spelled it right. At least it's better than calling it what I used to call it-- i.e. "that armhole thingy."

By the way, it might be more disastrous if I tried redraw my pattern. I got a D once on an Industrial Tech project that involved drafting. I'm pretty sure I cried.

I'm not crying here-- I think that means success
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Back/Side View
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The other big problem: the armpits. The bottom of the armscycle is too low with the 34 bust. I read in one of my sewing books that the bottom of the armscycle is supposed to fall approximately 1/2 inch under the armpit when the pattern has set-in sleeves. I ended up adjusting that issue by bringing in the seam line at that area by a couple inches. There was plenty of give, so it was easy to just pull it in. (Must resist "that's what she said" jokes) This seemed to cause the armscycle to migrate northward, which fixed the problem. On some previous patterns, I always had excess fabric (sort of like a bat-wing style sleeve) at the armpit area. I prefer a more tailored fit in the armpit area, so I'm glad I'm learning to fix this problem. A few dresses later, I found myself getting better at adjusting this area.

3.) THREAD: So, I bought this new black thread, because I was running out the previous brand I had bought. It said it was "all-purpose sewing thread." Is it possible that this is a fallacy? For some reason, this thread and my fabric did not mix. The thread kept bunching up in my machine, which in turn seemed to get my fabric caught in the feed dogs. When I first bought the new thread, I noticed that it was thicker than my previous thread, but I thought maybe it was just a better quality. Now I'm thinking it was somehow too thick for the fabric, which I'll get to next.

The shitty thread in action

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4.) FABRIC: This time around I used ponte roma polyester. I was getting sick of the ponte roma, but it turns out there are different types, because this PR poly felt very soft and didn't have the same roughness of the previous PR I used. So, the question is whether that thread and the soft PR were somehow incompatible?



5.) HEM: This hem turned out better than any previous hem. I turned the bias tape inside again (as was so helpfully recommended--thank you, thank you!). This time, the fabric had more weight, so the method worked better. I am so excited by this hem that I want to redo all my previous hems, and I'm actually excited to do it. I'm having a major dork-out moment ; - )

So, overall, success! I'm not necessarily "wowed" by this one either, but I do like it, and I am proud to say that with each dress, I'm working out the various fitting issues.

Happy sewing!

Astrid

It looks like a mod take on the Star Trek the Next Generation uniform
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Some things that make me go "hmmm"....

One of my favorite RTW dresses- see discussion in post
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One of my favorite RTW dresses- see discussion in post
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I have a few more dresses to post soon, but I wanted to share some thoughts. I've been contemplating a lot of random things lately, regarding sewing.

1.) MACHINES: I have a Singer Esteem II 2273. I bought it at Target for $130.00. At the time of purchase, I was brand new to sewing and wasn't sure whether I'd be able to learn, so I didn't want to invest a lot of money into a machine. The machine's okay, but I'm wondering if there are other machines that perform better. So, in your experiences, do you find that the quality of the machine makes a difference? I'm thinking of getting a new machine, but if one machine is basically as good as the next, I don't want to buy a new one.

If you think a better machine would make a difference in my sewing projects, let me know what machine you'd recommend and why it's better. Any help would be immensely appreciated! I don't really trust online consumer review sites-- so many times I've bought something based on reviews and the item was NOT good. I swear there are companies "padding" their products with good reviews.

2.) FABRIC OR FIT?: Because I'm a pretty picky person when it comes to my clothes, I like to be "wowed" by them. Perhaps my expectations are too high, but I always go for that "wow" factor when I'm shopping as well. Example: My friend and I will go shopping and we'll go to 10 stores. She's purchase something at least 2/3 of the stores. It would be a shock if I came out with one thing.

I haven't had much of a "wow" factor when it comes to my sewing projects. This frustrates me, because unlike RTW fashion, I had to go through a lot of work to make the item. As such, the urge to "wow" myself is even greater because of the work involved. I keep wondering: is my failure to "wow" myself due to not fitting my dresses as good as I could? Or, is it due to not using the right fabrics? I still have not found a fabric that I'm really in love with. I tried to compare my fabrics on my "wow" factor RTW dresses in my closet. Here's what I come up with:

1.) 100% polyester
2.) 67% polyester, 30% rayon, 3% spandex
3.) 100% cotton
4.) 92% polyester, 8% spandex
5.) 94% rayon, 6% spandex

So, there's obviously a trend toward polyester and/or rayon with a touch of spandex. But 100% cotton?? It's weird because the cotton dress has a lot of stretch to it, but there is no spandex in it.

And here's where I get more confused...I have used different 100% polyester fabrics and they weren't the same. I guess they have a different fiber content depending on the manufacturer?

Sigh...I must say that when it comes to sewing, fabric is an area where I'm really frustrated and lost.

Or am I wrong? Is it not the fabric but merely the fit being off? I'm running in circles, really.

Okay, so at the top of this post, I have pasted a picture of one of my absolute favorite RTW dresses. It fits me like a glove and it's this blend: 67% polyester, 30% rayon, 3% spandex. That dress is a black and blue sleeveless. The other dress is another favorite (fit wise).

3.) PATTERNS: Okay, I love the 60's mod stuff (as you know), but I'm wondering if I should also experiment with the early 60's more "mad men", Bettie Page style. Since I'm really struggling with getting the right fit as a beginning sewer, I'm wondering if I'd have an easier time with these styles (i.e. since the style is already closer to the body, which is what I tend to go for).

Okay and if I do go for these styles, I definitely need fabric recommendations. I've also posted pictures of some of the patterns I've bought in that style. Any help would be mucho appreciated.

Happy sewing!
Astrid

Simplicity 8381- 1969- Long Sleeve Colorblock Dress

Simplicity 8381 from 1969
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Pinning those tricky, curved front seams
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Can you tell that my husband loves these "action" shots?
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Notice the shift from "day" to "night"?
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It's Fall here in Atlanta and while the temperatures are still pretty toasty, they will *eventually* cool off. So, I decided to make a long sleeve colorblock dress (Simplicity 8381 from 1969). I have a low tolerance for temperatures under 70 degrees, so it won't be long before I'll be ready to wear long sleeves. I get a lot of stares when I'm wearing knee high boots over pants in the middle of summer. But, I'm cold-blooded, what can I say?

My husband (Truman) always helps me pick out fabrics and colors. He doesn't necessarily know what looks good. He does, however, know when things look bad. This time around I had a pretty big snafu, though, due to his advice regarding colors for this dress. His color snafu was irrelevant. I had picked the fabric from hell. With that, let's begin the rundown:

1.) FABRIC: The fabric from hell? 100% polyester "Jet Set" jersey. The fabric felt soft and flouncy in the store. It was kind of light-weight, but it seemed like it could work. The reality? The fabric was cheaper than the fabric of the "sexy nun" Halloween costume I just bought. And that's pretty mother-loving cheap! And not to mention so thin that I'll be cold! What was I thinking? Apparently, not much.

What attracted me to this textile terror? The 100% polyester ponte roma I've been using isn't my choicest fabric either. I like it okay, but it tends to pull a lot, which makes the dress look like it's wrinkling in weird spots, even when the fit is good. Also, the feeling against the skin isn't the greatest. It doesn't breathe much. I really NEED to find a good cotton/poly blend. I would have went with the ribbed cotton/poly knit again, but I didn't think a rib would work with the design of the dress.

What else didn't I like about the fabric? If I thought the ponte pulled, this one REALLY pulled. At the center of the dress (see picture), there is pulling galore. It looks awful. It makes the dress look very tight in the middle, when in reality it is quite loose. What can I say? The middle looks more like a Shar Pei than a finely tailored garment.

This garment needs some Botox--where's Joan Rivers when you need her?
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2.) THE SHITTY JUST GET SHITTIER: So, you've started the project. You've just realized that you HATE the fabric that you picked. It's flimsy. It looks cheap. You feel like you're making a Halloween costume for your dog (or in my case, pet rats). What do you then realize? The shitty just gets shittier. Your attitude is already bad. You feel like you won't like the final result. From then on out, the project is littered with stupid snafus that you don't usually make. You sew the sleeve on inside out. Your top stitching is slightly crooked. On the plus side, Mr. Seam Ripper is no longer lonely.

The sleeve was sewn inside out-- much cussing ensued
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Me & Mr. Seam Ripper: a match made in hell

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So, you ask, why should you even continue?

I didn't stop, though, because I was anxious to see how a 34 bust pattern would fit (this was one of the 34 bust patterns I was so excited to try after feeling the 36 busts were too big). Which leads me to the next point...

The garment before sleeves and hemming
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3.) SIZING: Good news! The 34 bust worked SO MUCH better. I pretty much followed the side seam lines, and it wasn't too small, even in the bust. So, I guess the comments about vintage patterns having a ton of ease were correct. My shoulder seams no longer look macho, because the size is so much better.

Before hemming the garment

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Nowhere was the 34 too small. I made hardly any adjustments. After completing the dress, I remeasured my bust. I had remembered it being a 36. Apparently it's 35. So, that's probably one of the reasons the 34 fit so much better. But, I had to ask myself, did my boobs shrink? Which leads me to my next point...

4.) COLORS: I had mentioned that my husband made a snafu regarding color choice. We debated how the colors should be after deciding on black and white. I had thought you were supposed to put the lighter color on the main bodice of the dress and the darker color at the sides and sleeves. I asked: Don't you put the darker color at the waist to make your waist recede and create a more hourglass shape? He was convinced it was the other way around.

So...hmmm...do you notice that the colors seem to have an effect on the bust line that....how do you say...makes it look a lot bigger? I'm not going to say that he purposely made the snafu, but you do have to wonder...

Is it just me or are some of my body parts a lot bigger than others?
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5.) THE WORKHORSE: My time for completion of a garment is improving. I'm becoming like the horse in "Animal Farm." Let's just hope I don't get sent to the glue factory. Notice in the pictures, that the early ones are daytime pics and the later ones are at night. I went from 12 noon to 10 pm. My dinner consisted of coffee and Cocoa Pebbles. That's dedication, right? Although, I still do everything I can to finish things faster, even if it means sneaky little shortcuts. I am a lazy sewer.

Necklace is a Sarah Coventry pin that I used a converter to make into a pendant
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6.) HEM: This time I turned the hem up and sewed the bias tape onto the inside to finish it off, instead of letting it show on the outside (this one didn't need a contrasting bias tape hem). Thanks to Heather for the suggestion on the hem. The technique worked well, although the fabric was so flimsy, it ended up having a "hoop skirt" look at the bottom. Ultimately, I thought it look better with the "hoop skirt" style so that was a plus! It gave a little more body to such a flimsy fabric.

So, that's about it! This is the type of dress that only the creator could love (okay, maybe not "love"). Oh well, I will definitely have to remake this one in the future using a good fabric, because I really love the design.


Happy Sewing Adventures!
Astrid

Simplicity 7796 (1968) Beatles-inspired mod gray dress

The pattern- I picked the middle view
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Ironing the invisible zipper- I just LOVE them now

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Uneven collar band pieces=weird Gomer Pyle face
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I created this gray, mod dress from Simplicity 7796 (1968). It's inspired by the gray nehru suits the Beatles wore in the 60's (the ones with the stand-up collars) My favorite band=fashion inspiration.If they were stars today, the media would nickname them J.Len & Paul Mac

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Making the dress was a fairly smooth process, but I'm not all that happy with the results. For some strange reason, the dress looks really great in pictures but not so great in person. The last dress I did, the peter pan collar dress, it was just the opposite. I thought that dress looked better in person than in the pictures. Hmmm.... I have no explanation for that, but here's the rundown:

1.) COLOR CHOICE: In person, this dress looks like a prison guard uniform. Methinks that gray wasn't a great choice-- at least not the flat gray I picked. For a solid color dress without a whole lot of detail, I probably should have used a fabric with more sheen or more texture-- more SOMETHING to make it stand out and not look so flat. I used ponte roma polyester again. I really need to try some new fabrics, but now that I'm somewhat used to that fabric, I'm finding it hard to change it up. Fear of failure? Probably. I'd love to try a soft, cotton/poly blend.

A VERY SPECIAL NOTE: My husband agrees that this dress looks way different in pictures. I swear I am not crazy.
2.) STAND UP COLLARS: I just can't get these stand up collars to look right. In one of the pictures, you'll see what I mean. I used the interfacing as directed (god, I make it sound like medicine), but it still doesn't stand up properly. It droops like Justin Bieber's career will in a few years.

Button detail and drooping collar that won't stand up properly--my boobs frighten me in this pic-- blame my Bohemian grandmother for these-- all flesh, no silicone

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I'm wondering if the neck hole is too large for me? Since I still haven't tried the 34 bust pattern, I'm wondering if the neck would fit me better on that size, which in turn would cause the collars to stand up and fit better? Could a too large neckhole cause a droop? I tried to starch the damn thing, but it remains flaccid. Either I totally don't know how to use starch or starch companies have been scamming people for years. Probably the former.

I also had some problems getting the collar to be even (height-wise) on each side, since it was made of two pieces divided by a small space. That wasn't so bad, but I did have to bond with Mr. Seam Ripper to fix the issue. I'm seriously reconsidering my friendship with him.

3.) SHOULDER SEAMS: Since I made this dress before I noticed the problem with the misplaced shoulder seams, I didn't fix that problem with this dress. I think this dress has more of a shoulder problem than the last dress. The seams are almost off my shoulders, making them look too wide (once again, I wish you all could see this dress in person).

4.) LENGTH: For some reason, I liked this dress better length-wise before I hemmed it.

I liked it better longer (that's what she said)
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5.) HEM: I did the bias tape technique again which is working for me. I do want to try the rolled hem, however. Haven't gotten the right foot yet. I do wish I had matched the bias tape closer to the color of the dress. It seemed like a better match in the store.

Well, that's about it for this one. I'm going to get some sewing in tomorrow. I'm excited-- it's been a busy month, and I haven't put as much time in. I'm also working with a ribbed knit for the first time so wish me luck.

Backside

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Oh how I wish this dress looked like it does in the pictures!

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Happy Sewing Adventures!
Astrid