Mod Arrow Dress Project: Simplicity 8682 from 1969- NAVY BLUE

A source of inspiration--I believe this was

made by E.C. Star Clothing
(ABOVE)

So, after having the various snafus with the green arrow dress, I decided to go forth with a navy blue arrow dress. I had learned some important lessons with the green dress.



This time around, I used a vintage navy blue polyester that had little to no stretch, so I wouldn't have issues with the applique moving around on me. I also went a little simpler, just so I wouldn't rip out my hair coming up with a final design. I put two arrows facing each other, and I wrapped them around the dress so that they meet at each side of the zipper on the back . I positioned them at the drop waist area, as was popular in the mod era. I also used the same pattern as I used for the previous dress (Simplicity 8682 from 1969).

A source of inspiration-- from "thecarnabystreak.co.uk" (great designs on this site!)
(ABOVE)

I'm very happy with the results. The design is simple but fun, and it definitely pays tribute to the pop art movement. Having learned some valuable lessons, I will be doing another applique in the near future, for sure! Oh and obviously, I made the bottom a little more a-shaped this time for a better proportion.

Another source of inspiration-- saw this one on Etsy

(ABOVE)

Happy sewing!

Astrid

Mod Arrow Dress Project: Simplicity 8682 from 1969

A dress that I was inspired by-- it was listed on
eBay by "meat-market" of Meat Market Vintage
(ABOVE)

Another inspirational arrow dress design that I found online
(ABOVE)

Truly a mod arrow dress-- a major inspiration
(ABOVE)

I've been SO bad about posting this month! I think the summer heat here in Atlanta has sent me into a warm, gooey coma. Now, with this post, hopefully I can emerge from it.

Previously, I posted two examples of felt (raw edge) applique skirts I made. My goal was to make a dress eventually and I used the skirts as warm-ups. This post is dedicated to the first felt applique dress I have made.

This is one of those hell projects. The ones that you toil over and debate over for days. Before this dress, it had been a long time since I had one of "these" projects. Oh well, at least I am *relatively* happy with the result. It's always worse when you're totally unhappy with the final product.

RUNDOWN:

1.) FABRIC: I used a vintage green polyester that I bought on eBay. It had a significant amount of stretch. If I could do it again, I would not applique onto anything with this much stretch. It was harder to keep the felt in place when I was sewing and I met up with Mr. Seam Ripper several times trying to get it right. Just when I think I'm breaking up with him, he pulls me back in!

Mr. Seam Ripper-- doesn't he look adorable...err evil...in this portrait?

(ABOVE)

2.) FIT: This dress marked a significant change in terms of fit. I ended up going with the 32.5 bust pattern instead of the 34. I had been wanting to try it for a while because I kept getting dresses that were significantly too big when I used the size 34. I have to say that the 32.5 is actually much closer to my size. I'm not sure why I was under the impression that I needed a 34. I will say that when I measure my bust, it measures 34, which might be the source of my mistaken impression. However, I'm thinking that the size issues relates to two factors: a.) most of the fabrics that I use have stretch so measurements can be smaller and still stretch to fit nicely; and b.) vintage patterns have more ease than I prefer and/or realized. So, my bust is bigger than 32.5 but both stretch and ease make the fit better than the 34.

Before hemming & tailoring
(ABOVE)

Another issue with fit related to the shape of the dress. I keep oscillating between liking and not liking the a-line shape. I'm starting to think that I do like the a-line shape, but I don't like for it to be as pronounced as it was in the 60's. I feel like I look larger than I am when the a-shape is too pronounced. I feel that it distorts my proportions, and since I used to be significantly overweight and was teased for it, I am very sensitive to this. On the other hand, a slight A looks nice to me and has a good flare. So, trying to get the a-shape to be right has been a problem for me. With this particular dress, I felt the a-shape was too pronounced. My husband commented that it was making me look too much like a bell and I had to agree.

These photos show the dress prior to my de-emphasizing the A-shape. They also show 2 of the designs I contemplated-- the designs were pretty cool
but the shapes were too big which was bad for my proportions.
(ABOVE)

So, I ended up finally (after so much deliberation, I wanted to scream) deciding to de-emphasize the a-shape. The only problem is I de-emphasized it too much. I made the bottom of the dress too tight to my legs when in reality, I should have left a little more flare. It has more a tight, wiggle dress bottom, which I don't prefer for this style. I do know why I made such a stupid error. I was so exhausted with this dress (i.e. due to the shape problems and some other issues that I will get too later). I should NOT tailor something when I am exhausted. I get too zealous like a scissor-happy hair-dresser. Unfortunately, I couldn't fix the issue because I had already cut off the excess seam edges after I brought them in. And so it goes...to quote Vonnegut.

This is how the dress looked after I decided to make
the A-shape less pronounced
(ABOVE)

3.) DESIGN: I spent WAY too much time deliberating about how to arrange the arrows on this dress. Even before I decided to de-emphasize the A-shape, I spent about 3 days (maybe a grand total of 8 hours) trying to decide how the design should look. I experimented with circles, arrows, question marks, etc. Luckily, I was able to use my computer to take a picture of the dress without any design and then experiment digitally with how the design should look. I also used cutout paper templates for some of my design experimentation. I'm fairly pleased with the design I came up with. I think the proportions of the shapes are correct and that the layout looks cool.

This was before I added the arrow applique but after I added the ribbon trim
(ABOVE)

4.) APPLIQUE OF FELT AND RIBBON: As I said earlier, appliquing felt onto a stretchy fabric was a bit challenging. Also, challenging was sewing the white ribbon trim onto the dress bottom. I guess my mistake came when I assumed that you could just pin the ribbon trim to the dress and sew it on. Not really. It ended up looking kind of bubbly in some spots, where the ribbon wasn't laying flat. My stitching also ended up looking goofy, because I made several rows of oddly placed stitches in a last-ditch effort to get the ribbon to lay down and stop looking all wrinkly. My husband claims it doesn't look that bad. It's kind of an eye-sore, IMO.

The finished product-- click for closeup
(ABOVE)

5.) THE FADE SNAFU: Oh and before I forget, I must mention that the vintage fabric I used happened to have a long faded strip running down the middle of the right side of the fabric (at the fabric's natural fold). And after I started making the dress, I realized this and had to reverse the entire thing, so that I would be using the wrong side of the fabric, which didn't have the fade stain. Otherwise, I would have had a faded streak running down the middle of my dress! Luckily, you couldn't really tell the difference between the right side and the wrong side. It was irritating to reverse the dress, though, because I had to transfer my dart markings to the other side of the fabric.


So, overall, this was one challenging project but I did learn a lot from it and my follow-up projects ended up being more successful as a result. I do like the look of the dress, but I do wish I had been more careful when I tailored it, and I do wish that the ribbon trim didn't look so wonky! You can't really tell from the pictures but trust me, it looks pretty crazy!

Sigh...I had such high hopes for using ribbon in my designs but now I'm not so sure.



Happy sewing!
Astrid

McCall's 2853 from 1971: Long Colorblock Dress

I like Simplicity's instructions better, but maybe I'm just used to them
(ABOVE)

Looking pissed, I don't remember but I'm sure something shitty had just happened
(ABOVE)

Before I joined the skirt and bodice
(ABOVE)

Okay...um...I'm a little embarrassed to say this, but what the hell, I'll never have to face any of you in person so....I have a backlog of six---yes, SIX-- projects that I need to post about. I do have an excuse though...I swear! I swear! I had to work 30 days straight this month, trying to fill orders for our holiday sales. And did I mention that I HATE working. Yes, I absolutely hate it. Even though I get to do it from home, I still want to claw my eyes out. Well, that's another blog.

So, this particular dress that I'm posting about was made in early or mid- November I believe. And I'm happy to say that the results are good. Now, I know this is technically an early 70's pattern, but with the colorblocking on it, I couldn't resist. I tried to make the dress exactly like the pattern envelope picture. Color scheme and all. I think the results are pretty close.

Presenting McCall's 2853 from 1971 (Version A) highlight reel:

1.) FABRIC: Few problems with this cotton/poly blend from Joann's. It could hang a little nicer. Not sure if that's my fault or the fabric. Okay, I'm sure it was mine.

2.) ZIPPERS OR LACK THEREOF: I have been "okay" with zippers ever since I learned how to install invisible ones. Although, I often don't like the way they feel against my body. Not sure how to explain, but they feel a little too stiff. They feel like they don't really "go" with the soft and stretchy cotton/poly blends I've been using. So, this time around, I bought a zipper but ended up not using it. It seemed like it would be okay, since the fabric was so stretchy. Surely I could get it over my puny little Nordic skull (ha!)...or not. I guess sewing in the facing made the neck hole less stretchy. Luckily, I had a small 4 inch (non-invisible) zipper on hand. So, I pulled out some of the back seam and inserted the zipper. Success! My head finds a new home.

So, should I have kept this as a hat? Honest opinions, please.
(ABOVE)

3.) CONSTRUCTION: This was the first time I put together a dress with a separate skirt and bodice that needed to be sewed together. Not too challenging. Although, I did have to make sure each piece fit separately and then luckily neither one was too big for the other. I really hate it when I'm trying to ease something together and end up with puckers.

Rear View
(ABOVE)

4.) IRONING: Still hate it.

Before hemming-- photographic evidence of my hatred of ironing
(ABOVE)

5.) CLUMSY: Only had my iron for a few weeks. Already broke it. I dropped it once. Then my husband dropped it. The plate has a piece missing at the end. That's how we roll.


So, that's about it! And more to come very soon. I hope to post a few times this week, so that I can catch up on the backlog.

Happy sewing!
Astrid

Simplicity 8456 (1969)- Simple Purple Dress

What you plan on making isn't always what you end up with. That was the story of Simplicity 8456 from 1969. Nonetheless, the ending was happy. A truly "feel good" experience.


HIGHLIGHT REEL:

1.) FABRIC: I'm happy to report that the fabric (a soft, cotton blend) was okay this time. I will admit that sometimes my results are "flouncier" and less stiff than the fabric on the envelope pic. But, I don't really mind that. I just resisted the urge to make a "that's what she said" joke. Aren't you proud of me? Oh wait, I guess I just...never mind.

2.) DETAILS PART I: Okay, so I left off the welts on the front of the dress. I suppose that was the detail that really "makes" the dress. However, I remember the fiasco of trying to line up the pockets on another knit dress that I made (the red and white one). I couldn't get those buggers lined up, probably due to the stretchiness of the fabric pulling them out of place (despite me using pins).

So what did I do? I gave up and left them off all together. I RULE! (said in the voice of Kevin Spacey from "American Beauty")


But seriously, I dug the "simplicity" of the dress without them. I just did a pun. My dad would be so proud.

3.) DETAILS PART II: So there is much top stitching on the dress, but you can't really see it in pics or in life. Doesn't it suck when you work really hard to sew something straight and pretty and then you can't even see the detail? Any tips for making top-stitching pop out more?

4.) FIT: No trouble here!
5.) PHOTOGRAPHY: What's up with the photographs making all my dresses look "wrinkly" even when they're not? Perhaps one of the mysteries of the universe or just related to really shitty lighting. Take your pick.


I'm happy to say there wasn't a whole lot to report here. It went really well and raised my confidence level. Okay, so I copped out a tad, but eh, I'm lazy.


Happy Sewing,
Astrid

Simplicity 7749 - Mod Dress with Colorblocking & Raglan Sleeves (1968)

Before color band was added
(ABOVE)

I made Simplicity 7749 (1968)-- view 3. This was the first pattern I have made with raglan sleeves. Another first-- adding a rather large band to the bottom. Here are the highlights:


1.) FABRIC: I used a Ponte Roma polyester. It was the same softer stuff I used on the previous dress, so the drape was better and the fabric didn't chaff my skin. This made me happy. But...[there's always a but, right?] I didn't particularly like the "look" the fabric gave the dress. I have an association with raglan sleeves (especially color blocked raglan) with men's sports uniforms. You know, the "baseball shirt." This made me sad.



Nothing against men's sport uniforms, but view 3 on the pattern envelope has a much more elegant look. Not necessarily evening wear but a more formal day dress.

Fabric choice: you remain my enemy.


2.) SLEEVES: This time around, no problems with the shoulder seams falling off my shoulders. Alas, this was nothing I did, but rather the nature of the raglan sleeve. I did find it rather tricky to sew the raglan sleeve seams and the neighboring side seams. Since the armholes are always falling too low, I do have to bring in the side seams quite a bit, and this was a bit awkward with the raglan sleeves. Nonetheless, I brought those puppies in as good as I could, and I'm fairly pleased with the result. No actual puppies were harmed in the making of this dress. Only imaginary ones. I kid. I would never hurt an imaginary puppy.

3.) FABRIC BAND: I do not like fabric bands. That is all.

Just kidding. Let me explain. I like the way they look, but I find them entirely disagreeable to sew and in need of a good spanking. I couldn't get the dang band to fit quite right after bringing in the side seams. This meant that the circumference of the dress did not match the circumference of the band-- the band had a greater circumference.

Could I have fixed this? Yes.
Did I try? Yes.
Did it work? Kind of.
Could I have tried again. Yes.
Why didn't I? Too lazy.
Why am I still complaining then? Because I can.

4.) FIT: I'm happy to report fitting this one was fairly easy. Tailoring is becoming less trying. Hurray!

Back view & in motion
(ABOVE)

5.) DETAILS: I added the contrasting cuff detail. I thought it nicely tied things together.



Coming soon... Simplicity 8456.

Happy sewing!
Astrid